Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Guten Tag Germany


On Monday, October 18, GI.JOE reported for duty and we began the next leg of our adventure. Our two-week journey would include visits to Munich and Berlin (Germany), Prague (Czech Republic) and Zurich (Switzerland) – four very different but unique cities. We arrived to Munich on Monday afternoon and decided to explore the city a little before dinner. Upon the advice of our hostel, we trekked several miles to an authentic Munich beer hall, Augustiner Braustuban. A local favorite, this Bavarian hotspot was packed to the max. We were able to score two seats at one of the many wooden benches inside the hall. The energy and smells emulating from the hall were palpable. We drank several liters of beer (a must in Germany!) and feasted on different Bavarian specialties including pretzels, sausages, chicken wings, pork schnitzel and cheese noodles.

The following day, we did a three-hour walking tour of Munich beginning at the Marienplatz by Mary’s Column. The city came alive and GiGi and I were amazed at the old world charm and beauty of this vibrant city. Highlights included the New Town Hall, The Glockenspiel, The Royal Residence, Church of St. Peter and the Memorial to the German Resistance. Our tour guide did an excellent job of sharing the history of the city and all the events that took place there. Did you know that Hitler was from Munich? The city was also the site of important historical events leading up to WWII including Kristallnacht (Night of the Broken Glass), Hitler’s Beer Hall Putsch and more. Bonus Fact: Munich is also the site of the well-known Oktoberfest!

That night we joined the locals at the concert of dance diva Kelis. Held in the basement of an abandoned department store that was turned into a grungy, live music venue called Puerto Giesing, the concert was full of young Munich hipsters and scenesters. We dressed in our Munich-chic attire and danced the night away to the space-age jams of Ms. K. No concert experience is complete without some cutesy merchandise and concert tees.

Our mood changed quickly the following day with a visit to the Dachau concentration camp memorial. In March 1933, Heinrich Himmler ordered the construction of one of Germany’s first concentration camps, just outside of Dachau, a small town near Munich. The first 5,000 prisoners were political enemies to the Nazi regime. In the following years, other social, ethnic and racial enemies were imprisoned as Dachau went on to become the only concentration camp to remain active during the entire Third Reich period (1933-1945). At the time of liberation, over 200,000 prisoners from more than 30 nations had been imprisoned there. The Dachau memorial has become one of the most important centers of remembrance, contemplation and learning in Germany today. As soon as we passed through the camp gates, we came upon the infamous saying, “Arbeit macht frei” or ‘work will set you free.’ This was one of many intimidation and propaganda tools the Nazis would use to control their prisoners. It was especially frightening to visit the crematorium and gas chambers. It’s one thing to read about it in school or hear all the harrowing stores but nothing can prepare you to a visit to an actual camp. The visit ended with the very touching Memorial to the ‘Unknown Prisoner.’ How could this have happened to so many millions of human beings?

After our visit to Dachau, we boarded another train to Berlin, the modern capital of Germany. It was almost a return home for me as I had spent a month as Berliner last summer for my study abroad program. I had grown to admire this city for its melting pot of cultures and gastronomic treats. I was anxious to show GiGi the city. The following day, we awoke early to begin exploring Berlin. Our tour began at the Brandenburg Gate, followed by several important landmarks including the Gendarmenmarkt with the Concert House and the German and French cathedrals, Museum Island, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, Checkpoint Charlie and Hitler’s underground bunker.

We also paid a visit to my favorite chic and cheap restaurant, Vapianos. A fast-casual concept that allows guests to make their own pasta and pizza dishes alongside a chef, Vapianos needs to be brought stateside ASAP. Thursday night was our first night out on the town and we visited a number of Berlin gay hotspots including the Axel Hotel Berlin, Prinzknecht and Connection Club Berlin. They sure know how to party!

The following morning we awoke to severe hangover that only a ‘China Box’ could cure. For all you non-Berlin visitors, residents there are a big fan of noodle boxes. From restaurants to food trucks, these heavenly noodles are served with chicken and come in easy to carry, Chinese take-out boxes. Delicious and uber-cheap, you’ve never tasted anything so heavenly. We also did a little shopping at Postdamer Platz and the Sony Center (we bought Cutesy the Penguin, an adorable H&M money pouch that has become the mascot of our trip; “Say hi, Cutesy!”), and paid a visit to the Schwules Museum, a permanent exhibition on the history, culture, art and everyday life of homosexuals. This fascinating museum is very unique and we hope that other cities establish similar exhibits. Before nightfall, we walked back to East Berlin to visit the Memorial for Nazis' Gay Victims memorial. This moving memorial pays homage to all the homosexual lives lost in the holocaust. We ended our stay in Berlin with a bang… literally! GI.JOE attended a gay circuit party at the infamous Kit Kat Club. An icon of debauchery and decadence around the world, the Kit Kat Club has served as the backdrop for many a crazy party and is also the legendary nightclub in the hit musical, Cabaret.

On Saturday, October 23 it was off to the magical city of Prague. To be continued…

Diamond Tips:
  • Pay a visit to www.neweuropetours.eu. Sandeman’s New Europe tours connect great guides with smart travelers. The company hosts free tours in many of Europe’s popular tourist cities and they serve as great introductions for any traveler. The tour guides work on a tip-only basis so you can decide what to pay. We did four of these tours and they were great!